Friday, 28 November 2014

Crimping sleeve ease

Just checking, how have you been?
I don't have a blog post with me, but I can't wait to show you the sleeve I made.
I used the crimping the method. I have seen the crimping method in text books but haven't seen them in blogs or videos. It has taken me quite an effort to get it right. But once I did wow the whole sleeve easing was a breeze.
No more 2 rows of gathering - what rubbish!  hahha .. Sorry
Crimping sleeve ease
 
Sorry about the photo. Just took it late night. I was so thrilled. And I have to show you what I'm making.
 
Do you use the crimping method?
Do you want a video of it? Pictures may not work here.
Have a good weekend!
Preethi.

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Thursday, 20 November 2014

Half size pattern drafting experience- A skirt



At the pattern cutting course in London we got to work with half size patterns at home - scaled to half size.
Seriously it was such a saver and it allowed me to work when the kids are awake, not having to wait until they sleep to get the entire dining table to myself without being disturbed.
This is something I could do watching tele.

Half size size 12 skirt blocks
 So here it is, I made a pattern myself of this skirt and also tried stitching it. Well the kids were asleep and I couldn’t use the sewing machine but my fingers were ithching to complete so I hand stitched it.
I’m so proud of it, I did show off in the class.


Slash and spread peg skirt
 At first when I started I couldn't even make out which way was top and which bottom when I started to sew but eventually managed.
Half size block skirt peg skirt
 Finished half skirt.. Well I didn't complete the waistband or the hem.. Just wanted to sew to see how it comes together.

Peg Skirt pattern drafting
 Enjoy your weekend.
Preethi.

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Friday, 14 November 2014

London Pattern Cutting Course

My husband's cousin came home on a Saturday and I just returned from my course. He asked what course is it. I said Pattern cutting. and he asked me to explain it.
And then he said Oh glorified tailoring :)

And yes it was,expect we did no tailoring.
Size 12 was our basic block from which we did our different variations.
- Dart manipulation of front basic block
- Dark manipulation of back basic block
- Dart manipulation of skirt block
- Collars etc...
Pattern cutting london school of fashion


We learnt 2 methods -
1. Cut and spread method which is the basic and tedious method
2. Pivot method - A very very good video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbeTqR5GIU0

Being from IT I'd rather prefer do all that on inkscape. Just an ever so slight pencil thickness or the angle of the pencil creates overall 1/2 cm difference. I'd prefer to do all that on my computer.
I'm familiar with inkscape now having drafted a nightie for 2T and a multisize 2T-8T sun dress.
But dart manipulation on the computer is something I need to get familiar with.

It was really a feeling of school - not like a traditional one or rather I can say more like a practical lab style.
Need real leg muscles to stand all day - yeah all day 10 to 5. Only time sat was on the first day where we had a little theory and during our breaks of course.

There was also a take your hands off your face moment in the class. All were stunned, really stunned and couldn't believe it.

Every time I came home and my husband asked what I did I was like - dart manipulation. But really that's what we learnt; I don't know if there is more to pattern cutting or it was just variations. Surely there are many more advanced courses but until I make my pattern for myself and move all those darts I'm not doing any more.
Pattern cutting womer's wear

Sleeves pattern cutting

Have a fun filled weekend.
Preethi.

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Wednesday, 5 November 2014

Why are we different sizes in different shops?

Why are sizes different in different stores? Have you wondered? I’m sure you have?

Why different sizes in different stores

 At London college of fashion where I’m doing this course we work on  a basic block size 12.
When I first heard we would work on size 12 I was super filled with joy. I’m a size 12 on most days and I  could use the same pattern to draft something for me. Well I thought and Oh boy! When I saw the block
it  looked like it might be a size 4 – that tiny or rather that huge was the size 12 from the shops I was buying from.
So I asked the tutor why this difference. She said there is no standard size 12.
And went on to say if I was going to have my own collection I’d need to study the market to know where I was competing against, study their sizes and position accordingly.
Strange right?
Also there was a buyer on our course and she said the lower end of market sizes are bigger for their size and higher ends are smaller.
What does that mean? Is it right? How crazy right?
Whatever, I bought a tunic from fatface last week and I fit comfortably in a size 10. Oh hoooo. Did that make me happy. Oh yes! I say.
Did anyone else see that size label – No. Does it make any better from outside – No
But you know what I’m talking about. The whole shopping experience gets so depressing when you don’t fit in your so called size in a shop right?

Size: 

Also, how does retail cater to bust cup size? A pear shaped size ? Why do I have to fit in a a size. The clothes need to fit me. :)

So I want to make my own.

Geography:

Also how do they cater to different geographies - Zara sells in India but do they have different measurements for Indian women?

Age :

We are different shaped when we get older. Is that even a consideration for ready to wear?

I tried to find a bit more and I came across - What size am I
Have a look. You can put in your size and it will show you what size for each shop you would need to buy. My sizes range from 12 – 14 - 16.
Next – Size 14
Gap – Size 16
Zara – Size 12
I think this is particularly useful considering the online shopping we do.
It’s a cool website I thought and you’d like too.

Have a good week ahead.



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Tuesday, 21 October 2014

Pattern Cutting Course in London

Although it may seem that not much is happening it actually is the opposite.
I've taken my interest to the next level.
Remember I always said if my interest last more than a year which it has I'd take this further. It all started Sept 2013 - the incubation and the buying of sewing machine and the browsing online and in shops, inspirations...

I enrolled myself (or rather indulged) onto pattern making classes in London. Its every Saturday for 5 weeks. Its a full on course.. really full on.

London pattern cutting short course


There are a variety of people on the course - some tasting whether it is for them, some who are in the industry interacting with pattern cutters and want to understand them, buyers, some who are already on other full time fashion course and some who have done a degree for 3 yrs just to find it was not for them and this is where they want to be. Variety of people from various backgrounds all learning something new. I've completed 2 classes now. The first class was a couple of hours of sit down but after that it was non stop action.

Completley and thorouighly enjoying it. Is it for me? YES it is. It sure is.

My sewing has come down drastically though. I've not created anything new. Sad face.  I've been going out lot more these days and reading a lot more on sewing than actually sewing.

Hold on and there will be lot of updates.


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Sunday, 28 September 2014

Pattu Pavade top

Oh! It has been almost a month I've blogged and you won't believe I've nearly forgotten how to create a post - how to size or attach the photos.
One clever thing I did was to document my little notes as I went along my blogging year trying to learn the HOW TO stuff. So it was a matter of minutes or I'd again be scouring the net trying to figure my way out.

Was I busy - nothing unusual
Was I running out of ideas - no, just too many ideas.
Was I sewing - NO

I wasn't sewing enough. The thing is I don't have a sewing room. It's just too much work to set up sewing in a temporary place and then tidy up and do the same again. The thought about the put it away is just putting me off.
But I've started again. So here it is.

My sis in law sent my daughter pattu pavade and it is already a little small, the top is a bit too tight. I can adjust and make the pavade longer but the top I've to sew a new one. So before I buy the proper fabric I thought I'll try to draft a pattern and make one with temporarily.

I did some embroidery as well -  french knots and its cousins. Pleased! 
The thread is mutlicoloured from yellow to orange. It was beautiful. This was the second time ever I was trying embriodery. The first was - the nightie.

French knot on top


Tie back top

multi coloured thread embroidery

Girl top neck

Pattu pavade top

Pattu pavade blouse

girl blouse for lehenga

Pavade blouse


French knots on top
The neck here needs to be under stitched. I need to stitch the lining with the clipped edges so the lining is not seen from outside. A learning for me.

tie back top girl

white top with orange embriodery

girl embroidery blouse

Sew blouse for pattu pavade

Stitch pattu pavade blouse for 2 year

Stitch top for girl

Sew pattu pavade top for girls


I'm taking off tomorrow. Going along with my son on his school farm trip. The school needed some help and so I volunteered.:)

Have a great week!
Preethi.

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Wednesday, 3 September 2014

Inkscape Nested Pattern making

Seems like ages I haven't looked at my blog or posted anything.
Last week I silently worked on the skorts pattern and that too a nested pattern - NOT easy.
Up until now I'd only made a very simple 2T yoke pattern like the nightie pattern below
Simple pattern using inkscape


and one simple nested pattern like the Mela Summer dress pattern where sizes were combined 5 & 6 T together, likewise 7 & 8T.
inkscape sewing pattern

This time I thought no short cuts - lets make one for each size. Again NOT easy.
It is really time consuming. How do they do it?
Marking, Spreading, angles, - there is so much to think about and I'm learning inkscape myself and there aren't many useful tutorials out there.
Considering that I'm happy with what I've done.
Only next thing is to div it up so they can accommodated into A4s for printing at home or in office. Shhh  :)

inkscape nested sewing pattern

Coming Soon! Promise.
Have a lovely rest of week.

Preethi

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