Thursday, 14 August 2014

Skorts Pattern First Try

Hope you are having a great week. My week is really busy work wise. Next few days or rather months is going to be quite like this. Work and maintaining the blog at the same time - demands so much from you, but who is complaining on the blog side. That's how addicted people become I guess.

I made the skorts or rather culottes or rather divided skirt.
When I had asked about a couple of months back on which pattern you'd like amongst the  nightie or the divided skirt most of you voted for the nightie and some showed interest on the divided skirt. The divided skirt then was pleated now I've modified the pattern to look like a flared skirt - mostly inspired by the circle skirt vintage dress I made with the open back. I loved the way it turned out. I loved the way I hemmed the dress using the double fold hem tutorial.

I used the cutting layout I described here.I've thought about the cutting so much really - for the first dress I made there was no uneven hem at all. I'm not sure if it is because of the fabric or my cutting layout.Hahaha. Enjoy some of the clicks showing off the features of the skirts.
Divided skirt pattern

Even if it flies in the air it will not flash the nappy.
Sew Skorts
You can see in between the stitching line.
Front and back culottes
I put a small ribbon on the back to differentiate between front and back. It's like trousers - front cannot be back and back cannot be front.
skirt shorts skorts
This shows the inside of the skorts - my MIL holding it for me.
Stitch skorts
The outside looks like simple flared skirt
Sew flared shorts
There it is - just like a normal skirt.
Divided Skirt
Notice the middle stitching line - just off the center on the left.

No peeking nappy skirt
Doesn't show the nappy even when sitting.
Culottes for little girls
Eating blackberries, MIL picking them.

Divided skirt for girls
See clearly the divided skirt - still doesn't show the nappy.
divided skirt sew
Now you can clearly see the division. I should have pressed first.
Simple Skorts pattern
At least the hem I should have pressed. Was in hurry to take the pics before it became cloudy again. Glad I did.

Enjoy the last few days of the week. Or alteast try :). I'm.


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Sunday, 10 August 2014

Bias Cutting layout

I've been thinking a lot on how to cut my culottes? I have to head to the library to learn more really, but I just thought I'll show you whats running in my mind. I could be totally wrong or so obvious - I don't know.

Culottes pattern drafting

Above is how originally I drafted the pattern. Now how do I actually cut the fabric? the dreaded BIAS stretch? Not only does it require 1-2 days to be hung but also it does change shape all along.
How do I avoid stretching? It really annoys me to see the fabric stretched out at the hem. Here are my options as I thought about them:

OPTION 1: Culottes cutting layout:

I thought about cutting it like a normal skirt or a trouser.

skorts cutting layout

Upon thinking hard I realised that in between the center seam and side seam stretch is very much likely. So how else?
How to avoid streching of hem

OPTION 2: Culottes cutting layout:

Divided skirt cutting layout

I realised with this layout that the stretch was less likely. I understand the amount of stretch totally depends on the type of fabric but was just trying to attempt if it could be avoided. The pattern will still require it to be hung may be overnight, but the stretch may be less likely. Lets see. :)
Avoid bias stretch

Have a good week.

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Saturday, 2 August 2014

Culottes or skorts?

I'm not sure what they are called - Culottes or skorts or rather just divided skirt.
I'm trying to draft one for my 2 year old. I want to make most of the summer before its gone you see.
Although it is just for me, I prefer to use inkscape - it just makes the slash and spread so easy and ofcourse I try to avoid paper unless its not possible.
If it comes out alright I'll share with you all.
Are you interested in this pattern at all?  I've tried drawing it here. But I've  changed my mind since. After the success of red polka dots dress hem I feel brave to attempt this one - rather more circular one.
Are you interested in a peek into my inkscaping?

inkscape pattern drafting
Have a good Sunday!

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Wednesday, 30 July 2014

A milestone for WIDI, Thank you!!

I'm super happy! I've got 4 reasons to celebrate my friends and share with you

One - Reached 100 likes on my facebook page and 90% are the kindest people that have found me online and liked me. isn't that amazing? I cannot believe it having no sewing friends; it feels great!
I'm now friends with 2 amazing sewing bloggers - Jaya from Jaya's place and Sindhu from Varnatantu.

Two: I've reached 550+ downloads on the Summer dress pdf pattern (that is what I've been able to track) and 450+ on the nightie pdf pattern.  The rest of the free patterns are more of a DIY so are not measured by downloads.

Three: I'm being featured in lots of places: Craftgossip for the summer dress variationtwisted elastic and many many more, pinterest, isewfree, premeditatedleftovers, naptimecreations and many many more. Thank you!
I get about 2000 views a day these days, peaks at time to 3k-4k - must be due to the summer dress pattern
Google knows me as well, I just need to get more friendly and share more with google. :) The organic search is slowly increasing .

Four: The best part and really the best was when Patty made this dress out of the summer dress pattern. Isn't it cute? The colours are so cute. Thanks a million Patty for sharing.

Wish I had a giveaway. I should arrange for something, I know, I have to figure this out though.

Love you all

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Monday, 28 July 2014

Summer dress pattern variation

I've today a variation of the summer dress pattern. Read variation as easy or lazy. Instead of having 3 tiers for the skirt I made a really quick dress with just one tier. It took about 1/2 an hour to sew this up. This is the easiest project I've made so far I guess. The skirts I made were far more complex than this.
Free sewing tutorial for dress little girl

You can make it as long or short as you want. Instead of having the 3 tiers like for the tiered summer dress we will make only 1. we will only use the measurements for "1 front" and "1 back" from the table below. The height(breadth of the tier) is totally upto you.  I went for above knee but you could do a top version as well.
Also remember that the 1 front and 1 back pieces are of varying heights - this helps with the elastic at the back.

Fabric cutting measurements for dress

Cutting layout is below:
Fabric cutting layout for girl dress

Follow the sewing instructions same as the summer dress pattern except you have lot less work to do. You'd basically be skipping the entire entire step 4 - . How to layer skirt and join bodice. You'd need to hem it the regular way though.

I used a contrast and interesting fabric on the inside for the lining and the straps.
Bodice with skirt how to stitch

Bodice lining how to sew

Learn to sew dress for girl

Fitted boy and full skirt sewing tutorial

Back rows of elastic
 Love the fountain. :)
straps how to sew

Matching up pattern pieces based on print
 I did try to match up the prints of the front and back but didn't realise I was cutting off the turtles back and heads.

How to sew dress for girls

girl dress free pattern for stitching at home

dress stitching learn

Enjoy your week!

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Sunday, 20 July 2014

Vintage Girl Dress

Vintage girl summer dress, well I thought it was a little vintagy especially because of the polka dots, but its just a modification of the  Mela summer dress.
Loved the complements we got on this one - Notice the WE :) and I loved it too. Totally!
This post is full of photos, sorry I couldn't choose any less amongst the nearly 100 I took. You read it right! Allow me and I'll post all 100. Every angle the dress looks beautiful. When did I learn to boast what I've done. :) Feel so satisfied with this one. :)
Have to show you the inside of the dress as well. Not a single seam seen. Yes, not a single - all seams are hidden. I'll take some more and show you.

Vintage girl dress

Love this photo - the back lighting emphasizing the back.

Circle skirt dress with bodice finished with bias

Vintage dress cross back

Sewing Pattern:

I used the Mela summer dress free pattern for this. I elongated the bodice, elminated the elastic back.
Added a full circle skirt. I've made about 20 circle skirts up until now and let me tell you I've found circle skirts the most difficult to finish.

Sewing problems and learning:

1. Circle skirt bias hanging problem:

Difficult fabrics tend to hang on the bias differently. What I mean is that any dress or skirt sewn on the bias has a tendency to hang or elongate on the portions that is hanging on the bias. By hanging I mean the skirt or dress area falling towards ground due to gravity.
So I hung the wet rather drenched dress 24 hours, hoping it will drop or hang but after 24 hours when I measured it it didn't seem to have hung. Well I don't have a mannequin and by no means can I measure it on my model daughter if it was equidistant from waist to hem. If I measure it manually, the angles can't get right and also due to the elastic on the back it was making matters worse to measure. 
Got an idea with this. Whilst cutting it, I'll insert pins where I need to measure after finishing the bodice and waistband.
Wonder how they do it commercially?  Would they need to have some maths that this type of fabric with hang or drop by this cm so would they cut the pattern shorter on the bias by that cm? Let me know anyone please?
Circle skirt cut on bias hanging problem

2. Circle skirt hem finish: 

Steam Iron magic

Curved full circle skirt how to  finish
I've used double fold to finish the circle skirt and I'm really pleased. This is the best finish I've had for a curved hem. I recently bought a new iron - a steam ironRowenta DW6010 Eco Focus Steam Iron, I'd suggest you all to buy a steam iron. You can skip step d on this. Save some time :)

3. Matching threads and preparation with bobbin thread.

In several photos you can see here I ran out bobbin thread and the matching thread as well. Just being overly lazy. I used matching thread on top and managed with white bobbin thread but it's not always you can manage - many times you would need to finish from the wrong side. When will I learn?

4. Attaching circle skirt with straight waistband:

I used my tutorial of sewing curved seams. In a circle skirt the stitching line across the waist is larger than the cutting line curve. How do I make the cutting curve same as stitching curve? clip clip clip!!
Simple? I got this perfect here.


Fitted bodice circle skirt

Circle skirt with elastic back

Full circle skirt dress

Round cutting skirt

Girl circle dress sewing problems

Circle skirt insert elastic

Full flare dress

prom dress

Tie back dress girl

Straps dress with circle skirt

Girl beautiful dress

Polka dots circle skirt dress

Have a great week!

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