Tuesday 4 August 2015

Vionett - Queen of bias; where did I go wrong

I know what is bias. I've closely seen how cloth is hand woven, done it myself on the loom. My husband comes from Paramakudi where the main source of income is hand weaving.
When you see how cloth is woven you understand how bias works, why there is no stretch on lengthwise grain and some on cross and lots on bias. A representation is below

What is bias, cross wise grain and lengthwise grain

What is bias, cross grain and lengthwise grain


I made a bias skirt (self drafted) on muslin and it looked great, well almost..

Self drafted Bias skirt

Self drafted bias skirt

DIY skirt


I used the same pattern and made the same using faux suede and everything went downhill.. I did staystitch immediately after cutting, no idea how it stretched out.

Bias Skirt Stretch

Any help?

Bias skirt stretched out issue

Bias waist stretched out

I've been learning a lot about bias ever since I made the gathered circle skirt for my daughter -

gathered circle skirt

You can see on the sides how it has stretched out. One things for sure - whoever said circle skirts are easy are just lying.

An excellent video here on bias -
How much gravity has to do with bias - Its such an interesting watch .
We would think of bias as given, but so much thought has gone into it before it has come into textbooks

Madeleine Vionnet- Queen of bias cut - inspiration for designers like Chanel, Lagerfield, Valentino








And here is an excellent file for keeps on bias. A little over the head for me at the moment for its for keeps.. slowly one I'll get the grips to it -

45 degree magic 

Enjoy!
Preethi.


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Saturday 1 August 2015

Self drafted Bias Skirt - scary!!

Bias is something that always scares me... My first experience was the gathered circle skirt I made for my daughter.

You can see below at the front how it is stretched out.
Gathered circle skirt

Here again at the side you can see how it is stretched out.

pom pom skirt
All over the internet there is circle skirt as a simple skirt- but seriously how ? How can one understand bias and its handling.  I think skirts to start with are simple gathered skirts.

I've made a bias skirt pattern for myself and made it out of calico, this calico is bit thick so the fall is not very apparant. Hopefully the faux suede will do a good fall.

self drafted bias skirt

self drafted bias skirt front

The material has a great fall, so wait and see..To test the fall - you can see this post to buy a drapey fabric.
faux suede fabric






Enjoy your weekend :)
Preethi

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