Monday, 12 May 2014

Cut on Fold and Lengthwise grain - jargons explained

These are the few jargon terms I'm using in my nightie pattern. I tried max to avoid using these terms but I couldn't figure out how else to represent them. So not so friendly are they? I thought let me at least explain the terms to make them user friendly.
So here I'm explaining or trying to explain what these terms are and how you should interpret them.
Sometimes I think who am I to tell you how to do or what something means. So these are just how I do things or how I interpret them. If you think otherwise please leave comments - I'd love to know from you.
What is cut on fold, lengthwise grain

Here is a snapshot of the pattern piece.

What is cut on fold and lengthwise grain

Fold:

On the left you can see Fold with a rectangle around it. I'll show you with an example what this means:

You'd need to line up the pattern marked as "Fold" or "Cut on fold" along the folded edge of of fabric.
What is cut on fold and lengthwise grain

Another for clarity
How to cut on fold


Once you open the cut fabric you can see here it is one single continuous piece of the yoke part of the pattern.

Lengthwise grain:
You can see a double arrow with lengthwise grain written on it.
This is the line that runs parallel to the selvage. Full details of selvage are in this post. It also has a number of hand-loom photos I took in Paramakudi, India.
My hand drawing of grain, selvage, warp and weft here - I put it in the way the warp and weft come together in handloom :
What is selvage, grain, warp, weft

Below picture shows selvage. The ends of fabric which do not fray and mostly they are of different colour with the brand name printed on it.
What is selvage


Aren't they pretty? I went to buy some rayon fabric and ended up buying these lovely linen fabric. I have no idea what I'll do with them but I couldn't resist. :) Does this happen to you?

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